day 8, the Imperial Citadel

Breached in 1968, the previously impregnable walls of the citadel are extensive and currently enclose a neighborhood as well as the Imperial City, which was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. The Imperial City was built circa 1362 and eventually served as the capital of Vietnam during the Nguyen dynasty (1802 to 1945). Within the city is the Purple Forbidden City, which is similar to China's Forbidden City; the inner sanctum was reserved exclusively for the royal family.

Due to war with France in 1947 and the US Tet Offensive in 1968, many of the outbuildings, wooden pagodas and gardens have been reduced to rubble and weeds. Around 160 buildings once stood within the citadel but less than a dozen survived the Battle of Hue. Even with an abbreviated Imperial City, we could not view everything that we wanted to see; the residential and administrative complex is expansive and encloses multiple courtyards, lakes, and gardens.

The restored and remaining palaces and temples were beautifully wrought, just ornate enough to be impressive without bordering on Louis XIV gaudy. I especially liked the wood carvings while SB's sister was impressed with the pottery mosaic artwork.

I was particularly fond of Cung Diên Thọ, the residence complex and receiving hall of the queen mothers, which was enclosed by a Lily pond. The complex layout was in that shape of the longevity character, and the longevity character was prominently featured in the artwork on the facades and carved into doors.

SB rests his gouty toe

If only we could have borrowed the queen mother's conveyance...

I also enjoyed Ngoc Dich lake. The lake and gardens are ruins but here and there, you can see a semblance of what was and it was a fun detective game piecing together in my mind how the formal and informal garden layout was arranged.

Tourist dollars are funding the restoration of the Imperial buildings and tombs that were damaged and neglected for many years. I could see a large difference from the first time that I visited, 20 years ago. Interestingly, the crowds of tourists were worse 20 years ago and I wonder if this is because they can be dispersed among the expansive complex today, while the limited site 20 years ago meant that the lower numbers of tourists were nonetheless crammed into a smaller space.

You can read more about the Imperial City here:
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/sid/668/vietnam/hue/imperial-city